Climbers are being told by Nepalese officials that Mount Everest's summit will be put off-limits to the public from all sides during the first 10 days of May, so the Chinese can carry an Olympic torch to the summit without risking a high-altitude confrontation over
It plans to use the
Everest straddles the border of Chinese-controlled
"We're holding out hopes that it's a tentative decision, because we've got so many things in place," said Mark Gunlogson, president and owner of Seattle-based Mountain Madness, which has three clients preparing to climb Everest before the start of monsoon season, which is generally during the summer months.
"The May 10 date just doesn't work for anybody," he said. "That doesn't let people acclimatize, and the problem is if the Chinese are slow to get up there, or if they get held back with bad weather, that date just gets pushed back. But it's hard to say how many days past May 10 is acceptable. It's a bind for sure."
Expedition leaders and tour operators say they have been told by Nepalese associates who deal with the government that it intends to keep climbers off
But they say
On Friday, Nepalese officials said
"My hope/expectation is some compromise where we can start climbing, build some camps, acclimatize ... then pull down for a break while the Chinese are up high May 1 to 10," Eric Simonson, director of International Mountain Guides in Ashburn, Wash., said in an e-mail to The Associated Press.
"Who knows, maybe the Chinese will summit April 25 and surprise everyone, and this will all be a non-issue!" said Simonson, one of the leading guides on Everest.
Last year, organizers for the Beijing Summer Olympics announced ambitious plans for the longest torch relay in Olympic history — an 85,000-mile, 130-day route that would cross five continents and reach Everest's summit.
The Olympic organizers have not released an exact date for the planned ascent. Expeditions from the Chinese side of Everest and around
The China Tibet Mountaineering Association issued a notice about the closing on March 10 because of "concern of heavy climbing activities, crowded climbing routes and increasing environmental pressures will cause potential safety problems."
Every year thousands of Tibetan refugees cross into
Phil Powers, executive director of the American Alpine Club based in Golden, Colo., said his organization planned to draft a letter appealing to Nepalese authorities to lift restrictions on climbers going up to Camp IV at 26,000 feet at the South Col.
That would let climbers using the route of Everest's first ascent in 1953 gain acclimatization for reaching the summit later in May, the month when most recent successful ascents during the pre-Monsoon climbing season have been made.
Other veteran climbers who have been up Everest suggested to the AP that Sherpa climbers who are certified as liaison officers could effectively monitor people who are conditioning themselves below the Everest summit on the Nepalese side.
Powers said the club, which publishes a journal of the world's most significant climbs, said a compromise would allow climbers to safely go up Everest and
"It's sort of a pity that the celebration of Olympic sports is actually inhibiting the accomplishment of the climbers' craft," he said. "One of the great things about climbing is that because of their apolitical approach to their craft, they end up being great ambassadors across these political lines."